Shopping Thrift Stores and Pawn Shops For Collectable Jewelry Considered

Finding pristine pieces of collectable jewelry takes a lot of patience and a bit of knowledge. That means it takes some experience and observational talents that must be developed over time. Some folks like to peruse the online ads on eBay, Craigslist and such to find collectable jewelry, but you better make sure you know what you are buying and that the picture displayed is crisp and the actual digital shot of the item that is for sale.

It’s starting to sound a little dangerous buying stuff online or at online auctions isn’t it? Sure it is, so beware. Still, a talented shopper can find some super deals online, again, with patience, knowledge and knowing exactly which questions to ask, before they send the electronic payments to the seller. May I be so bold as to offer some advice on shopping for collectable jewelry another way, using the “what you see, is really what you get method?”

 
Why not go into a nicer area and check out the Pawn Shops? Right now with the economy in the tank, many folks have hocked their collectable jewelry to get quick cash to stay in their homes, pay their mortgages, or get money to stay out of bankruptcy. With job losses increasing at the bottom of the recession, there is quite the supply available.
 
If you have collectable jewelry and you take it to a Pawn Shop do not expect to get much for it, it’s too risky and many Pawn Shops will not give you much for it, as there is no definite market and its value is so hard to judge. There is a market for some specific top end brands like Rolex Watches, but for the most part collectable jewelry is not so easy to Pawn.

 
Perhaps this is why you can get such a good deal for it. And while you are at the Pawn Shop, why not check out the Thrift Stores too. The selection might not be so great during a down economy, since more folks are shopping for low prices for jewelry, but Thrift Stores often have great collectable jewelry, again if you are patient and know what to look for. Think on this.

Where to Buy Cheap Sneakers Online

SHOW ME THE FAKES!

Replica sneaker buyers want to know which sellers and websites are honest. Well let me tell you how to pick a good site. BEWARE of China scam sites that only except BankWire transactions! You will never get your money back, and certainly won’t get any shoes to your door. YOU NEED A USA BASED SITE AND A SAFE, TRACEABLE CHECK OUT PROCESS!

Example of a good USA based customer service page:

Experience.

The site you choose should have purchased PLENTY of replicas from a large pool of suppliers in order to find the highest quality replicas.

Assurance.

If you do not receive your shoes, you should be sure you can receive a FULL REFUND and a PERSONAL APOLOGY.

Selection.

The sites inventory may NOT SEEM EXPANSIVE, however if they PRIDE THEMSELVES on NOT HAVING RIDICULOUS UNRELEASED COLORWAYS THAT THEIR CUSTOMERS WOULD BE CLOWNED FOR, that’s a good thing.

Passion.

The site owners should be fans of these replicas, and fans of people getting the ‘look’ and saving big.

Example of a good USA based policy page:

· They DO NOT sell authentic shoes. They sell replica factory variants of high quality.

· All sizes are in US men size and they recommend you order 1 size up for a comfortable fit.

· You should be sure you will receive an order confirmation from PayPal via email after payment once you have completed a successful checkout.

· They are concerned about customer privacy concerns. All transactions on their web site are secure for your protection. None of their customers information will ever be sold or given out for solicitation or used for any reason whatsoever to second or third parties.

· All prices listed on the site are in US currency.

· They never share your personal information with anyone nor will they sell your information to a third party.

THE VERDICT!

To each his own. If you don’t wanna spend $150-$300, find a good replica site with options that cost $59.99.

Goodluck!

Machine Embroidery on Jackets

Of all the different wearable items that can be embroidered, jackets would appear to be the easiest. When most of think of jackets in terms of embroidery, large areas for full back and left chest designs come to mind. What many of us often forget are the little curveballs apparel manufacturers are adding into their designs such as box pleats and seams down the back. Fashion forward styles may have things like raglan sleeves which can throw off design placement since they lack the guideline of a shoulder seam.

One sure way to begin with a jacket that is fit for embroidery is to focus on working with styles that give the fewest headaches. Therefore, do some research on the newest trends. In addition, start with a machine that is in top notch condition, with fresh needles and bobbins. Below are the other basic elements to consider in your quest for trouble-free jacket embroidery.

Choosing a hoop

The best choice in hoops for jackets is the double-high hoop. This hoop is taller than the average hoop so offers more holding power. You can wrap your hoop with white floral tape, medical gauze, twill tape or bias tape to prevent hoop marks and help give a snug fit. Tissue paper, backing or waxed paper can also be used. Hoop these materials on top of the jacket, then cut a window for the embroidery. A thin layer of foam under the tape can also help. But avoid masking tape as it tends to be sticky and leaves a residue on jacket and hoop. When choosing your hoops, remember that oval hoops hold better all the way around than do square hoops with oval corners. The “square oval” holds better in the corners than on the sides, top and bottom.

Needles

The size and type of needle will depend on the fabric of the jacket. Leather jackets call for an 80/12 sharp. (Wedge shaped “leather” needles tend to do more harm than good.) Use this same sharp needle on poplin and other cotton-type jackets. Use a 70/10 or 80/12 light ballpoint on nylon windbreakers and a 75/11 fine ballpoint on satins and oxford nylons to avoid runs in the fabric. Heavy wool jackets, canvas and denim jackets require a stronger sharp needle. Corduroy stitches well with either ballpoint or sharp. Remember that ballpoint needles nudge the fabric out of the way in order to place the stitch, while sharps cut through the fabric. A good rule of thumb is to use the same size needle to embroider as you would to sew the seams of the jacket in assembly.

As for thread, polyester is a good choice for embroidery on jackets that will be exposed to the weather and coastal climates. Be sure to include washing and dry cleaning instructions with your finished product. Consider choosing a large-eye needle when working with metallic and other heavy specialty threads

Placing the design

Hold a straight-edge across the jacket back from side seam to side seam at the bottom of the sleeves. Mark a horizontal straight line, then double check this with a measurement from the bottom of the jacket to the same line. Jackets are not always sewn together straight. Measure the straight line and divide in half to find the center of the jacket. Place a vertical line through the horizontal line at this point. The intersection of the two lines will be the center. If you are rotating the design to sew upside-down or sideways, take this into consideration when measuring and later when hooping. Use tailor’s chalk, disappearing ink pens or soap to mark your garments. Avoid using pins. Masking tape is available in thin strips at graphic and art stores. It is easy to remove and leaves no marks. Wider masking tape, though, can leave residue.

Centering the design eight inches down from the back of the collar is a good place to start, and should work with most jackets. Small sizes may do better at six inches; very large ones may end up at 10 inches. The top of the design should fall about 2 ½ inches down from the collar of the jacket. But remember that this will change if the jacket has a hood. Then it will be necessary to place the design below the hood.

The best way to determine the center point of the design is to have someone try the jacket on, or invest in a mannequin. Pin an outline of the design or a sew-out to the back, making sure to include lettering and graphics to determine size and placement. Left or right chest designs should be centered three to four inches from the edge of the jacket and six to eight down from where the collar and the jacket body intersect. When embroidering on jackets with snaps or buttons, use the second snap or button as a guide.

Be careful not to place the design too close to the sleeve side of the jacket. Designs are not to be centered on the left chest. The correct placement is closer to the placket than to the sleeve. The center of a sleeve design should fall three to four inches below the shoulder seam of the sleeve. When placing a design on the sleeve of a raglan style jacket, mark the placement using a live model or a mannequin.
Backings

The complexity of a design will often be the major factor when choosing a backing for embroidery. Stitch intensive designs may need the extra stability backing provides. Even jackets made of fabrics such as poplin and satin (that might not otherwise cry out for a backing) can benefit from its use, especially if the design is complex. Consider attaching the backing to the jacket with spray adhesive before hooping to increase stability. Attaching a piece of light cut-away backing-or even rear-away-to a satin jacket can hold the jacket better while stitching, allowing for good registration in your design. And, if you should need to remove stitching, the presence of a backing can make your job easier and safer. Backing can also prevent residue from coated canvas fabrics from raining down into the bobbin housing.

Most jacket materials do not require topping. The exception to this might be the corduroy or fleece jacket where the use of a topping can tame the fluff of the fleece and prevent stitches from falling into the valleys of the corduroy. The use of underlay does a better job than topping for challenging fabrics-and as an added benefit, it does not wash away.

Hooping technique

When hooping, especially large or bulky items, start from the “fixed” side of the thumbscrew and travel around the hoop to the “free end.” Use the heels of your hands to alleviate stress on your fingers and wrists. When hooping flat on a table, make sure that there is nothing between the hoop and the table. If any adjustment is needed, hold as much of the upper hoop in place as you can while adjusting. This prevents the garment from popping out of the hoop.

Always make sure the jacket lining is smooth, and double check to determine that the outer shell and the lining are even. Turning the sleeves inside out can help with hooping a lined jacket.

Hooping too loosely can cause puckering, too tightly can cause fabric burn. It can also stretch the fabric causing it to “spring back” when unhooped, meaning more puckering. Tips to prevent puckering include lightening the tension upper and lower, using tear-away if lettering is fill, using mid-weight cutaway if lettering or design is satin stitch. Adjust the hoops before hooping the garment and do not pull or stretch the fabric after it is hooped. Puckering is a risk when stitching on satin, and the lighter the weight of the satin, the more the danger of puckers. You will have the best results when the hold is firm. If you can move the satin around in the hoop, it will move while stitching.

A light pressing or steaming of the area to be embroidered can improve results and ensure that lining and jacket are lined up correctly. While you are checking to make sure your bobbins are full, it is a good idea to check that no part of the jacket is doubled up under the hoop. And please make sure you are not sewing pockets shut, especially inner ones.

Hooping the jacket upside-down and reversing the design is a good way to keep the bulk of the jacket away from the needles. Make sure the arms of the jacket are out of the way of any stitching before you begin. Use clothespins, bulldog clips, quilting clips or even large hair clips. Make sure that you support the weight of the jacket during embroidery to prevent the fabric from slipping out of the hoop, and to help ensure good registration. Embroidering jackets on the tabletop instead of in the tubular mode can help prevent the weight of the jacket from hampering the job. Check also to make sure the material is flat against the throat plate. If you can push down the fabric, the presser foot will too, and this can cause flagging. Flagging can cause stitching problems and poor registration.